Jinja and Back Again, an Intern's Tale

Hey everyone! It's been a long week, with so much information. In the time since I've been here, I've found myself officially settled in the education office (with my own desk) and room. However, that does not mean that I've had much down time since I've been here. Last week, I visited my first classroom, celebrated Madaraka Day with Kenyans, traveled to Jinja, Uganda for the weekend, spent a night in Kisumu, and found my way back to Lwala this afternoon. Along the way, I met Germans, Americans, South Africans, South Sudanese, and of course, Ugandans and Kenyans. In the mesh of experiences, I have become much more aware of the diversity of East Africa and the complex socio-economic structures within. For example, South Sudan, Kenya and Rwanda depend on Uganda for power/electricity because of the large dam at Jinja. However, Ugandans pay much more than South Sudan or Rwanda for power because of its immediate export. This creates a distrust of Ugandan government that is evident by Ugandans view and discussion if its neighbors.  This was exacerbated for us, since we were moreso your stereotypical "American tourists" (although not as bad as the group of Peace Corps volunteers also there).  There are some common threads throughout the region--particularly regarding gender. In my last post, I discussed some of the patriarchal society that is evident throughout Lwala. However, that also transcends to other regions (which may not be surprising). Katie, my fellow intern, has been frequently treated in proprietorial manner by Ugandans and Kenyans--whether it be 'Letting her hold the money,' 'You let your woman talk to you that way?' or even something indirect such as only making eye contact with me during a conversation. All of these reactions and comments were particularly demaining, and yet Katie responded to them in stride.  I was starkly reminded of the dangers of a patriarchal society and what that can mean for women abroad. Although the US is not much better at times, I can only imagine the issues that women abroad deal with on a regular basis. The fact that LCA has made such strides in public health for women and girls is remarkable and promising for both women's rights and overall well-being.

Overall, we were still able to have a lot of fun.  White water rafting and zip-lining in the Nile, a sunset cruise, and 3 days later and I'm glad to be back in Lwala.  It was a blast of a weekend, despite some of the sexist comments along the way.  

In regards to technology, I have found something a bit justifying/expected but also in direct juxtaposition to the environtment. Everyone has a cell phone, and usually a smartphone. Even in the most rural areas, individuals at least have a key-pad phone capable of texting and usually 3G data access.  In Uganda, there were a few different providers (MTN, Airtel, etc.) that provided service.  However, even with Katie's international phone and my local phone that has service in East Africa, reception, data, and communication in general was spotty at best.  Further, discrepancies in currency found us paying in a range of Kenyan shillings, Ugandan shillings, and US $. Kenya offers a unique case, however, with one primary reason: the absolute explosion of M-Pesa and Safaricom. For those that do not know, M-Pesa is a mobile money transfer system that allows users to deposit actual cash for 'mobile money' and/or airtime.  Users can then send and recieve cash via SMS for a small transaction fee.  Also, unlike popular apps such as Venmo, Samsung Pay, etc., M-Pesa does not require a connection to a bank account, and can thus be a direct cash-to mobile transfer line.  What makes this a little more complex is that M-Pesa is run by the same company as Safaricom--Vodacom, and has created a complex monopoly of e-commerce throughout the nation.  Although there are other companies, such as Airtel, that are present in Kenya and neighboring Uganda et al., none has as much power or presence as Safaricom and M-Pesa.

*Even in the most rural parts of Kenya, next to women selling vegetables on the street, you will find a building painted green with 'Safaricom' and 'M-Pesa' brandished on the side for top-up airtime servies and cash-to-M-Pesa transfers.  According to the Economist (as of 2015), M-Pesa mobile transfers accounted for a whopping 40% of Kenya's GDP, not counting the revenue generated by Safaricom subscriptions in general.  Vodcom's presence in Kenya through Safaricom and M-Pesa have been so expansive that there are bills in place to split Safaricom from M-Pesa.  However, these have largely failed at higher levels of government--although coincidentally that may be because of the government/treasury's 35% shareholder status in Safaricom (Vodacom's is 40%).  

While this may raise a number of eyebrows regarding corruption, Safaricom and subsequently M-Pesa have brought one of the closest things to 'banking' to many rural areas where savings/transactions outside of cash have not been customary.  It as allowed local markets and small businesses to expand, and reports have shown it has reduced crime and theft (since there is no cash).

However, it also has given rise to cybercrime and security issues, including large crackdowns on illegal and unlicensed airtime trading.  This raises an entirely different issues for policy makers and government officials to deal with for ICT and finance.  However, given the profit that is being generated in the country, this may not be as important as the shillings themselves. The question, then, is what is worse: a corrupt monopoly that is tangentially brining money and safe banking practices where there was none, or a dysfunctional conglomerate of competing mobile money schemes that doesn't offer the same universality?  Or maybe nothing at all?  I'll leave that one to the economists.

*Photo courtesy of: http://www.npr.org/sections/goatsandsoda/2016/12/09/504540392/dial-m-for-money-can-mobile-banking-lift-people-out-of-poverty